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Warsaw and Poland 1995 - 1996
       
Below is the article I wrote when I left the Warsaw Business Journal and I think that says enough about my time in Warsaw. I always enjoyed Warsaw: the Poles know how to party and despite the grim relics of communism, and the invaders they replaced, there was something very real about Warsaw.
       
Leaving Warsaw

Winter is hovering around the corner. I sat staring blankly at the golden leaves and thought back to last winter. That was enough for me to decide that winters in central Europe are strictly for the birds. I thought of a nice warm beach somewhere and wondered how I could winter there. A fax arrived from Lord Toad. Have hotel in Patong Beach, Phuket (Thailand) can you come and help. Am I stupid!
       
It is now about a year since I started writing for the WBJ and in that time I think I have: wined in most of the better restaurants in town, listened to most of the pub bores and avoided the worst rip-offs in the City's bordellos. So a little round up before I wing away seemed appropriate.

I am always being asked what the best restaurant is. However it is not a simple answer. The answer is another question. What are you looking for: how much do you want to spend, are you going with a group for a fun time, or a single person to snuggle up to and what kind of food do you like. Assuming money is no object then I would probably recommend the Malibu (ul. Chmienlna 132/134. Tel: 656.2943) for those who want a modern ex-pat managed restaurant. The Swietoszek (Jezuicka 6. Tel: 31) in the Old Town is a Polish restaurant with reasonable food, good service and good atmosphere. Upon reflection the very first restaurant I reviewed the Casa Valdemar ( ul Piekna 7/9. Tel: 628 8140) had a plenty to offer with it's Spanish fare. Of the hotel restaurants I was impressed with the Le Balzac, the top restaurant of the Mercure Hotel (Al. Jana Pawla II 23. Tel: 620.0201.
       
Even when cost is no object I enjoyed the more economical offerings of the friendly Der Elefant Pub (Plac Bankowy 1. Tel: 620 4611), the Greek Santorini (Ul Egipska 7. Tel: 672 0525), the unordinary Ulubiona (17 Armii Ludowej, Tel: 25 51 87) and for Indain I preferred the Taj Mahal (Brzozowa 27/29 Tel: 31 89 26). These four restaurants represent good value when compared to there higher charging competitors.
       
As restaurant reviewer I often wonder what effect my reviews have. On that note my review of Blue Cactus (ul Zajqzkowska 11. Tel: 651 2323) caused a temporary cessation of conversation between the owner/managers of this paper and the owner/managers of the Ground Zero and the Blue Cactus. However my spies tell me that my criticism of the service has more than hit a raw nerve, it has resulted in some of the best service in town!
       
When I am not whining I am trundling around other entertainment establishments and for my mind the only genuine Irish pub in central Europe is in Warsaw. The Irish Rover is run by the chain smoking, serious drinking and for ever playing Ollie and his hard working son Tom. There is not a designer nook or cranny in sight and the word decor is an unsuitable word to use when describing the interior, which I suspect just happened. This pub is due to move to the centre of town soon. I hope it retains its unpretentious character and can still keep Ollie in the style he is accustomed. There are of course bars, and now pubs galore, and the others I have enjoyed include the friendly Locomotive and the late night pick up spot the Zambizie.
       
Late at night there are the discos, which I seem to have grown out of, (I started in this business as a disco operator) and the bordellos posing as topless bars. I am often asked about the mud wrestling at the Arena. It seems to strike a cord with many; however my stock answer is 'not enough mud and not enough wrestling.' For me the Arena is a safe, if slightly boring spot where out town visitors can be entertained. The Adria (8 Moniuszka. Tel: 27 42 46) has a lot more style, but is still basically boring. The place I enjoy most is the night club attached to the Polonia hotel (45 Al Jerozolimakie) where the clientele are often alcoholly challenged and are not the kind of people Mummy would have approved of, but at least there is real life and seedy action.
       
I feel more than a little sad to be leaving central Europe but, as a restaurateur, I have always believed that one should move on and now seems to be the moment. I have enjoyed Warsaw and Poland. My first visit, with Lord Toad, was February 1990 and Warsaw was the more memorable of the cities that we played in on that trip. We certainly had a better time than in Budapest, or Prague. The single most memorable night was in Pilsner (Czechoslovakia as was), but that is a story that can hardly be written.
       
Six years ago the newly opened up central Europe seemed the place to head, now I head for the so called tiger economies of the Pacific Rim. I hope I have as much fun.
       
     
       
       
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