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The end of my restaurant reviewing career in Hungary - July 1996
       
It was a dream of course...
I was standing behind the bar of this pseudo pub. The bar was narrow and the all the beers seemed to have a mind of its own. I reached for a glass and the Dreher exploded in my face. Then the Chicken came in. He first demanded a bloody Mary, then complained because I had no Marlboro lights and, to cap it all, asked for credit. The bar was filling up and the inexperienced staff was huddled in a group discussing the staff rota whilst five customers waited. I saw a group move towards the restaurant stairs. I snarled at the nearest girl to get after them. A babble of damn silly questions left me wondering whether to abuse, amuse or bemuse. Eventually I achieved some kind of order and the drinks seemed to be flowing. I checked the restaurant and all the starters were wrong. Then some darned American women seemed to think prawns were shrimps. Thank god, I thought in my dream, that I am just a restaurant critic. Then the awful truth dawned on me. I was awake.

       
So it had finally happened.

Before I came to Budapest I ran pub/restaurants in the UK, and my reason for coming here was to stay in that business. Five years ago I got neatly diverted and have enjoyed using my knowledge to impose my views on what I found in bars and restaurants in Hungary. Well that started over five years ago, and, as a restaurateur I have always said that five years in one place is normally enough. So a few months, ago when advising a group on buying a pub, I was tempted when they said I was a condition of the purchase going through. I said what the heck (or similar)! Why not?

I have trundled in, and catterpiled out of nearly every worthwhile restaurant in Budapest. I have driven around most of Hungary and visited virtually every three star (Magyar rating) and better hotel. I have consumed an estimated 20,000 beers, 1000 bottles of wine and spent over Ft. 2 million on restaurant food alone, over the last five years, as I have tried to report on what is good, naff, foul and simply a rip off.

I have dined with the finest in the best places. I have danced with seditious and dallied with temptation and titillation. I have been damned by cheats. I have suffered indigestion and worse from murdered and abused food products. I have made friends, and enemies. I have laughed, abused, loved and hated through my PC.

But, for the time being, my restaurant reviewing career in Hungary was over.

I thought about continuing my subtle and helpful reviews, of my now fellow restaurateurs, but I suppose that could leave me open to accusations as to motive, if I found services anything other than perfect.

Becoming a restaurant critic was a kind of evolution for me in which I turned my hobbies, eating and drinking, into work. On a trip back to London a drinking acquaintance suggested I had achieved my ultimate ambition. I suppose to begin with that is how it seemed, and when I find a new really worthwhile place it is. However like all jobs in the end, it is a job.

So now I have another job and bid farewell to the last five years which has seen such monumental events as: two divorces for Lord Toad, both played out in gory details in the tabloids back home; the rise of a great local (English language) newspaper only to fall to the vagrancy's of an unscrupulous salesman and above all else the movement, of restaurants from naff state ownership to greedy entrepreneur ownership and finally, in the last year, or two, a few to genuine professional owners.

In the last couple of years I have forecast the success of the two most successful restaurants, in Budapest, within weeks of their opening. I do not think that my reviews of Fausto' s and LouLou's were singly responsible for their successes but I know they helped. What really makes them work was the fact they were good restaurants with good managers/owners. But I can still say I got there first and told you so.

I look forward to competing with them and others. And you will read about my trials and tribulations as I fight with attitude, bureaucracy, complacency and inevitably dishonesty. Also I hope to find enthusiasm, camaraderie, ambition, inspiration and new friends.

C YA.

Note:
Sadly this career move did not last long: my new partner proved to be very fickle.

       
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