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I
have wanted to head for the seaside, although I
must admit that I feared the worst. However when
I started asking where to go I was told Sopot was
the place and the Grand hotel therein. |
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The name the Grand
Hotel made my ears pick because I have been to several
such named hotels in this region. They were mainly
built around the turn of the century and once offered
hospitality on a truly grand scale. Unfortunately
standards of decor and service have been allowed to
slip n the last few decades, but the basic hotels
normally hold great potential if they ever again get
into the right hands. So thus cheered I asked how
to get there. My proposed trip nearly ended then as
it was suggested that I should board a train before
even the most enthusiastic sparrow was thinking of
rising. However I finally found a train that would
allegedly leave just before 9, and waft me to Sopot
in time for a late noon day gin. Needless to say it
was later than expected when I arrived.
Finally I found the taxi rank outside the ticket office,
which initially I ignored as it involved a seemingly
avoidable climb. Then since I had no other point of
reference the Grand Hotel had to be the spot.
Sopot is not a large place and the Grand Hotel ( Tel:
(58) 51 00 41)dominates the central area, located
just north of the pier. The hotel is, as I hoped,
a splendid left over from a pervious era, built later
than I expected, after the First World War. The interior
still remains true to it's original design and is
a clear reminder of what this hotel had once been,
and could again become. The receptionist was helpful
and swiftly sold me a single room for Zl.190. My room
over looking the beach, and the sea, was good and
large even if the plumbing had not been changed since
being installed when the hotel opened. I was miffed
to find the management had removed the bath plug,
because the bath was big enough to be a private swimming
pool. However everything worked and I had no complaints.
I did not eat at the hotel, and had the feeling that
might not be a good idea. Later I met a man who stayed
there often, and he confirmed that the rooms were
good, but avoid the dining room. The breakfast I had
was typical of a three star, former communist, hotel
in this region. Plenty of bread, jam, cold meat and
nearly undrinkable coffee.
Happy with my hotel, and not wishing to clear the
beach by exposing my body on it, I trundled off to
explore the town. I found two other notable hotels.
The most interesting was the Zhong Hua Hotel ( al.
Wozska Polsiego 1. Tel: (58) 50 20 20 Fax: 51 72 75)
which is just the other side of the pier to the Grand.
This is new hotel, built by the Chinese, with architecture
that has more than a hint of the Far East in it. This
is a good modern hotel where prices are slightly cheaper
than the Grand with high season rates being single
Z.210 and double Zl.245. I was impressed with hotel
and the helpful receptionists. However when I ventured
into the restaurant they left me sitting outside,
literally on the beach, for ten minutes. I took my
Zloty elsewhere.
No far from the station, and the centre of town, is
the newish Irena Hotel ( ul Chopina 36. (58) 51 20
73). This is a much more basic place and offers single
rooms at Zl.55 and doubles at Zl.88, all rooms have
a shower and loo.
The main street, ul. Monte Cassino, runs straight
back for the pier. This attractive tree lined street
is pedestrianised and supports a formidable range
of bars. In the UK they worry about proliferation
alcohol serving establishments, there is clearly no
such worry here. The Pub FM (Monte Cassino 36) seemed
the best bar around. Opposite is the Loch Ness pub
had little to do with either Loch Ness, or monsters.
The bar that I enjoyed drinking at was the open air
bar in the centre of the square, which precedes the
street proper. Monte Cassino encourages an interesting
range of buskers including an opera singer and a jazz
trio.
There are also several unpretentious eateries in this
area and I was surprised to see that fish and chips
is a staple holiday food. The pick of the places was
Bar Niki (ul Powst W-wy 7 which is on the left going
from the central open air bar and cutting across to
the Grand Hotel) where they not only have a very good
barbecue but fry fish also. I had what was supposed
to be cod and chips and was, I think, haddock. No
vinegar and no newspaper but damn good fish and chips
which I washed down with a bottle of wine and paid
under Zl.30 plus a good tip to the very helpful staff.
In the evening I wandered in and listened to a lively
trio and decided that I would forgive them for the
plastic sunflowers, they added a nice touch to this
all outdoor operation.
As the bars close several discos pick up business
from those who want to party on. The smart spot is
the Baileys club under the Grand Hotel. I tried visiting
the casino in the hotel but was frustrated by Orbis
(operators of the hotel and the casino). The hotel,
on checking in, had taken my passport. The casino
would not let me in without it, although I had my
key card. 'Maybe they could call the reception,' I
suggested.
'No' was the reply I must go and get my passport.
When I left muttering things about ignorant, unhelpful
and stupid, the receptionists thought it was hilarious.
I was not displeased they had just saved me money!
Sopot is well worth a visit. It s not tacky as I feared
and I suspect that one day it will once again become
a real first class resort with first class facilities.
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