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I
listen out carefully for information of new restaurants
opening. I like to be up with the news and hit that
restaurant as soon as it opens. My reader wants
to know what is happening and a report on a new
restaurant is always a good snippet to have. The
other day Istvan mentioned a new restaurant but
before I could extract the address the Greek Goddess
had intervened saying no she had promised the owner
not to tell me where; until the operation has settled
down. She protested too much and within half an
hour I had the address. I know from my own experience
that opening a restaurant can be a traumatic experience,
but also know that whilst there might be glitches
in the start up weeks it should be clear if there
is a chef, on organisation that cares and a concept.
And providing there is then the future must be rosy.
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| A taxi deposited me at the correct address,
however there was no sign. But through the plate glass
windows I spotted the restaurant and a coiled electric
cable above the window showed that a sign was expected. |
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| The Malibu (ul. Chmienlna 132/134. Tel:
656.2943) is on the ground floor of a modern office
block, which provides good open space divided up by
some colourful pillars encrusted with sea shells and
pieces of tiles, and a large banquet in the middle
with a vast bowl of flowers atop. I later; learnt
that the windows will be curtained and one of the
walls will contain a large mural. Those additions
are needed to soften the room. The bar is near the
door and has an interesting blue background of a seascape
and the bar top is glass over sand adorned with sea
shell etc. The item that caught my eye was the ashtrays
baring the sign of the Widow (Veuve Cliegot). |
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| I had barely stepped inside the door
when the enthusiastic owner rushed up to me. He quickly
explained that the restaurant was not yet finished
but after sitting on his hands with a full staff he
felt he just had to get on with it. I agreed whole
heartedly and went to the bar. My coat was whisked
away and a cloakroom tag produced, a paper one which
was soon to be replaced by something better I was
assured. The least of your problems I thought. |
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| I sat at the bar with beer and studied
the menu. The cuisine is described as Californian
and the hosts are from Beverley hills, and clearly
proud of it. The menu is sensibly limited and very
well balanced although it annoyed me simply in that
the language used is that modern menu language which
leaves me stone cold. One item was 'Cornmeal encrusted
calamari with chipoble tomato dipping sauce,' or deep
fried calamari with a tomato dip. The menu is broken
down into four sections of starters, pasta, main courses
and desserts. I decided that in order to do this new
venture justice I would try something from each section.
Thus I started with Tomato basil soup which was thick
with a good flavour. I then tried the linguine with
seafood, white wine and tomato. This was slightly
disappointing in that the tomato sauce was very rich
and masked all other tastes which included an unexpected
artichoke heart and disappointingly some warm water,
as opposed to cold water, prawns. For a main I had
grilled pork loin with rosti potatoes and leeks with
a green peppercorn sauce. This was good well presented
dish with the pork still moist having been cooked
on a fast grill, as it seemed had been the leeks.
For me the trouble with pork loin in modern restaurants
is that they remove the fat which at the end of the
day provides most of the taste. |
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The wine list is equally well thought
out and there are most unusually three house wines
well priced at Zs.27, from California, France (J.
Moreau & fils) and Rioja (Spain). I had a bottle
described on the menu as French Chardonnay but in
fact was blanc de blanc, but it was perfectly acceptable
house wine. The half bottle of red was again a generic
rouge rather than a Merlot, as on the list, but the
difference are put down to a glitch with the supplier.
C'est la vie.
The question of service was never in doubt. The only
glitch was they tried to confiscate my wine bottle
by putting it out of my reach. This is a pet hate
of mine and was quickly rectified. The keenness of
both the staff and management was such that I could
have done with a do not disturb sign as every passing
bought an enquiry regarding my happiness and general
well being.
After the meal I spoke to Stuart Havelack again and
declared myself. I think he was a little horrified
that I had turned up literally on his first open night
but I assured him that I understood the problems and
was interested to listen to his ideas of things to
be completed.
It is clear that the Malibu is a very serious restaurant
and it is run by highly motivated catering professionals
who will get it right. I expect that within a short
period of time booking will be essential for most
evening sessions and some lunch times. |
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