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What
does it take to make a successful restaurateur?
Some would suggest that ability to cook is essential,
others would say front of house skills. There are
those who would point to marketing and PR. Modern
British breweries seem to think that a course in
accountancy was more important than anything else,
but then they are run by accountants! Some people
would have said one of my main strengths was my
ability to drink all and sundry under the table.
However the other evening I found yet another requirement
for a good restaurateur, the ability to make movies. |
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| In the past we have all been handed
the dreaded instamatic with instructions to press
the button, after saying 'cheese.' I was having a
discreet meal with my Guiding star in the Légrádi
Testvérek (V. Magyar utca 23. Tel: 118:6804)
when I saw the assembled crowd at a nearby table suddenly
hand their video to Ferenc, the manager, and demand
that he film their behaviour. Personally I can imagine
nothing worse than a record of my behaviour at the
end of a jolly dinner party. Photos are quite bad
enough. |
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| There are four restaurants with the
Légrádi name in Hungary. Of the three
in Budapest two are operated by the Légrádis
and one, at the Vigado Casino, is a franchise. Everything
I have seen and heard about the Vigado casino restaurant
would suggest that the Légrádis should
recall the franchise, because at the moment the Légrádi
family is held in high esteem in catering circles,
and the Vigado could very well ruin that reputation.
The restaurant near Gyõr, Iréne Légrádi
Vendéglõje at Zsejkpuszta, is one of
the best restaurants outside Budapest, which is unfortunate
because it has added a night on my driving time to
Vienna. The original restaurant is the Magyar utca
restaurant. This restaurant has one of the more pleasant
rooms in town. The whole outside is all about persuading
the casual passer that nothing really happens behind
the plain doors which leads to an airy cellar. The
decoration is traditional with paintings that are
pictures rather than somebody's ramblings after using
substances best kept away from police officers, and
some good pieces of heavy furniture. It has that refined
dinning room feel that is normally lacking amongst
the kitsch that is abundant in so many of the top
restaurant in this city. The black side boards are
pleasantly full of bottles, and other accoutrements
to a good meal. In many ways the decor reminded me
of a typical small French country restaurant. |
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| The first course which is thrust upon
one is a hors d'oeuvres trolley. On this occasion
I sent it away saying I wanted to look at the menu,
but in reality except for soup the contents of this
trolley are the starters on offer. As much as anything
else I desired to slow the process down. |
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| I wanted a drink in my hand before the
food started arriving. The contents of the trolley
are attractively presented and it is a nice change
in presentation, however what is presented is very
similar to that on offer at so many of the fork receptions
I end up at. The foie grass is creamy but slightly
bland; similarly the mini portions of steak tartar
could do with a little jazzing up. The prawn sauce
on the fish terrine was good. There were three or
four other choices and a selection makes a good, if
slightly uninspiring starter. |
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| The main course, that was recommended,
was duck and venison with Cumberland sauce. This was
served attractively with Brussels sprouts and carrots
giving a good colour effect. The venison was delicious
with a real gamey taste, however the half of duck,
if indeed it was duck, was pretty tasteless, cooked
in a microwave, which I have no objection to except
that it makes the cooking time critical and in this
case the extra minute had been a minute to far. If
it was duck it was a damn small one, it seemed even
too small for teal. |
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| For pud we had Grand Marnier soufflé
which is wonderfully different for Budapest and well
worth the fifteen minute wait. A large slug of Grand
Marnier was poured through the raised crust of the
sweet. I was not so sure about the pink custard, but
it was separate and thus I could avoid it. |
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| Through out the meal there was a lively
duo, of a guitarist and a violin player, who provided
a pleasant range of numbers from traditional to classics
to jazz. They seemed to be looking in my direction
when they played 'Yes sir that's my baby.' This rendition
was followed by 'tea for two,' I just hope they did
not expect me to put on and impromptu dancing lesson
of the cha-cha. My near neighbours would have needed
a wide angle lens. |
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The wine list was limited but generally
looked well chosen, I had a bottle of Somló
Hárslevelû which was very drinkable,
and the couple of glasses of house red, to make up
the inadequacy of only 75 cl, were equally acceptable.
The operation is overseen by an attentive Ferenc Pusztai
who kept a sharp eye on what was happening, however
the two waiters were slick and willing. This is one
of the nicest restaurants in Budapest and as proof
booking is normally essential. The bill of Ft.7,900,
without a tip, was enough but not as silly as some
of the bills I have received in this town. I feel
that some of the food could see improvement and if
that was to happen this restaurant would be way ahead
of virtually every other place town.
C YA |
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| Fine Dining in:
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