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On
September 16th, I had one of the most memorable
lunches I have had (and I have had a few). I dined
at Gundel (XIV Bp. Allatkerti ut 2) with the current
part owner, operator and inspiration behind the
plenteous renovation of this classic restaurant.
We sat outside in the garden and eased our way through
eight courses, gloriously out of synch (the soup
came just before the pud.). Being a stupid Brit.
I was unaware of the full range of George Lang’s
achievements. However it quickly became apparent
that although I thought I knew a bit about food
I was talking to a walking, and talking "Larouse
Gastronomic." |
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A restaurateur must have soul. In this
town I can not think of a restaurateur that I know
(except maybe Charles Legradi) who really has the
all caring determination, knowledge and feel to create
a fantasy. Undoubtedly George Lang does, and what
is more amazing he is of the age when most men are
preparing to meet their creator rather than still
creating.
Our lunch lasted four hours, and I was introduced
to the thinking behind the new Gundel. The menu speaks
for itself with new innovative dishes as well as carefully
researched authentic recipes. An extensive reference
library has been established providing the chefs with
past inspirations and mind titillating ideas. I do
not think the idea of the apple and goose liver sandwich
came from this library, it is pure 'Goose liver a
la Lang' and delicious.
Hours have been spent tasting wines and working to
help the state decimated the wine industry back to
the standards that will be demanded not just by clients
of Gundel, but by all sections of the Hungarian market
as increasing sophistication hits the restaurant scene. |
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| In early July, shortly after Gundel
was reopened, I reviewed the restaurant and whilst
impressed with the renovation, I found the operation
a little lack-luster. I concluded (Edition 17) by
saying "The money has been spent. It now needs
the zip and the zap; it needs the style in presentation;
it needs the 'je ne sais quois;' it needs a greeter
with the presence and determination of its founder.
It needs all these things if it is to once again be
the beacon for gourmands, sophisticates, aristocrats
and high rollers that it once was." |
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Following my lunch with the abused current
Greeter, I decided that after a decent period I would
try again. The other Sunday finding a under nourished
Trabant owner in need of sustenance I headed back
(not mercifully in the Trabant). We arrived at 2.30,
lunch is served until 3.00. This was the first time
I have eaten in the main restaurant, which is a magnificent
room, with NO background musac. (This is spelt like
this beautiful and sexy editor)
I was really pleased to see an extensive game section
in the menu, having sampled so much of the menu I
headed to this section and started with potted partridge,
which was served with pureed lentils (with hidden
ingredients). The partridge was hot and I felt could
have done with a little extra hanging but then I like
the taste of the game to come through. Otherwise it
was good. The Trabbie owner's frog legs received only
praise from this first time frog eater. As a main
course I had tenderloin of venison, nicely pink on
a rich brown sauce of wild mushrooms. It was almost
too large a portion and I felt a little colour would
have improved the look. Like a couple of Trabbie's
brussel sprouts or carrots, this went with the nicely
moist chicken breast. |
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We accompanied the meal with a bottle
of 1991 Öreghegyi Chardonnay from Etyék
by Tibor Bathori, and a bottle of 1989 Villanyi
Cabernet Sauvignon by Zoltan Polgar. Both these
wines made by the new breed of Hungarian wine makers
and first class.
I am sorry George but I was still not impressed
with the service, although it was not bad it still
lacks that sparkle and outside on the cab rank are
the most expensive cabs in Budapest charging Ft.80
per Km.
George Lang has taken on something any sane knowledgeable
person would avoid at all costs. There is little
doubt that given time this will be a world class
restaurant. It is now one of the best in Budapest.
The question is will Gundel in another two years
be one of the best restaurants in Europe, will it
be the beacon for gourmands, sophisticates, aristocrats
and high rollers that it once was? I am sure it
will be if the Greeter can spend enough time in
this city.
C YA
Note
I fear this was the beginning of the end of my friendship
with my friend George. He tried constantly to get
me to say how wonderful Gundel was. Over the years
he got more and more fed up because I really was
not that impressed with the food and never did I
rate the service. But that is what I believed and
most people in Budapest agreed with me. Having said
that if you are visiting Budapest and are interested
in good food and restaurants a visit to Gundel is
a must! |
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| Fine Dining in:
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