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Further Reading

   
Warsaw
Warsaw Index
Malibu
Major, Gdansk
Sopot: on the Baltic
Le Balsac
Santorini
Bitte Der Elephant
Malinowa (Bristol)
Blue Cactus
Blikle's
Belvadere
   
Hungary
Gundel and George Lang 1992
The first Beaujolias Noveau race to Budapest. 1992
The end of 1992
Legradi: 1992
Siofok, Lake Balaton 1993
Gyula, Szeged etc. Autumn 1993
Tirana, Albania: Spring 1993
Kiev May 1993
My last offering for Budapest Week: December 1993.
Zagrab, Ljubljana. Spring ‘94
Lake Balaton 1995
Sopron Autumn 1994
Prague 1994
Nitra, Slovakia: Febuary 1995
Villa Medici, Veeszprém (Drinking and driving) 1995
Wine and assorted offerings: 1995
Nautilus ‘95
Istria, Crotia 1996
Five years of article writing: May 1996
The end of my restaurant reviewing career in Hungary July 1996
   
   

Bitte Der Elephant for beer and more
       
The bright sign, promoting an expensive German beer, caught my eye every time that I passed it. Just on the corner as the road sweeps into the impressive Place Bankony the sign directs the eye to a glassed extension which jumps out from the building line. This is clearly a bar, but as the only message is a request for an expensive beer, I could not help but wonder if the place had a name. A few weeks ago, after getting board watching the spring time rituals of the ungodly in the Zanzibar, I wandered up the road and inspected the bar below the beer sign and found the friendly home of the Elephant. A few days later I went back to eat.
       
Der Elefant Pub (Plac Bankowy 1. Tel: 620 4611) impresses as soon as one approaches the front door, in the temporary extension, that is the bit that juts out. I presume that in the summer this is opened up. However in the winter it provides a pleasant conservatory that allows those inside to look out and meditate on the wisdom of leaving the warm atmosphere of the womb of the elephant for the cold reality of a Warsaw winter.
       
Moving back through this conservatory the reason for its existence is all to clear. The main part, that includes a dominant bar, is very small. Add to that the fact that a great deal of the cooking is also performed behind the bar and it is quickly clear that without the outside bit it would be claustrophobic and impractically small inside. The inside is comfortable with a mish mash of decorative objects. A couple of parrots perched over my head during my meal and I had a word with the head of the elephant that dominates one wall, he was not to unhappy, he explained, since he was plastic. However the boar, who's head stared at me throughout dinner was defiantly miffed about the missing body, not to mention being confined to this room far away from the forest that he lived in.
       
The place looked full. However a very friendly waitress quickly gave me a table near the bar, although I would have happily sat at the actual bar and watched the chefs at work. I felt obliged to order a half litre of that expensive German beer, and my view about the price was confirmed when the menu told me that it had cost me Zl.8 for that portion of Bitburger. However I was here to try the food and thus sustained. I got down to the menu. It is not one of those menus that go on and on, in fact it could be described as limited. Although for me it was more that adequate. There is a small starter section, which include steak tartar and prawn cocktail among others. Then there are two soups, a selection of salads and a couple of sandwiches. There are two snacky dishes recommended for drinking with beer including a plate of pig. However it is the grill dishes that dominate with a large barbecue selection, which contained most meats, four dishes for great gourmands (all grilled) and a section of Balkan grills which includes bratwurst at Zl.10. The next section headed 'from the frying pan' predominately featured pig in many ways, I ordered prawn cocktail which turned out to be a large bowl of eatable cold water prawns in too much, but good, cocktail sauce, on a bed of lettuce. I make the point about the sauce because it smothered everything and being slightly piquant killed most tastes.
       
For a main I had a Bavarian grill which my smiling waitress tried unsuccessfully to decode into English. What arrived was a layered dish of pork steak and bacon steak. It was straight for the grill and cooked so that the fat still ran and charring of the grill was evident but not dominant. With this there was a separately ordered baked potato and a couple of relish style dips.
       
With this food I had three glasses of the house wine at Zl.3 per glass. It was that old friend Sofia and at that price represents Zl.22.5 per 75cl. bottle. I was surprised to see some very exotic wines on the list including Lafite Rothchild at Zl.920. The Elephant is not the place I would expect to drink such a wine. There was a Chianti at Zl.35.
I declined an offer of ice cream, or the house pudding, and sat back with a final glass of that beer. Somewhere, somebody obviously recognised me as a great gourmand because a complimentary glass of what I think was cherry vodka was offered, and, needless to say, accepted.
       
I enjoyed every thing about the elephant. It is a first rate place serving good pub food at sensible prices (my bill was Zl.57.5 before a tip) with friendly service and in a great atmosphere.
       
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