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Further Reading

   
Warsaw
Warsaw Index
Malibu
Major, Gdansk
Sopot: on the Baltic
Le Balsac
Santorini
Bitte Der Elephant
Malinowa (Bristol)
Blue Cactus
Blikle's
Belvadere
   
Hungary
Gundel and George Lang 1992
The first Beaujolias Noveau race to Budapest. 1992
The end of 1992
Legradi: 1992
Siofok, Lake Balaton 1993
Gyula, Szeged etc. Autumn 1993
Tirana, Albania: Spring 1993
Kiev May 1993
My last offering for Budapest Week: December 1993.
Zagrab, Ljubljana. Spring ‘94
Lake Balaton 1995
Sopron Autumn 1994
Prague 1994
Nitra, Slovakia: Febuary 1995
Villa Medici, Veeszprém (Drinking and driving) 1995
Wine and assorted offerings: 1995
Nautilus ‘95
Istria, Crotia 1996
Five years of article writing: May 1996
The end of my restaurant reviewing career in Hungary July 1996
   
   

Belvedere
       
High above me on the branch of a vast palm cum cactus a sparrow fed it's offspring. I sat and perspired gently to the sound of chirping sparrows. Chirping to the point that I could not make up my mind what I wanted to strangle the most: the sparrows or the disco beat that assaulted the light classics being strutted out of the noise machine. I finally gave up on the service refilling my glass of wine. I dived across the aisle to rescue my bottle in its ice bucket and thus allow myself to drink at my rate. The chocolate on the next door table nodded her approval.
       
I had decided to sit in the conservatory, rather than the park outside, when I trundled into the Belvadere (Lazienki park entrance from ul. Gagrina Tel: 41 48 06). This was not my first visit. It was in fact my third, although the first visit, some years ago, rather fell apart when a long haired greeter had insisted that I wear a jacket, in the middle of the summer. A jacket was a commodity I had failed to think appropriate as the temperature soared. We went elsewhere. This time I was admitted, at lunch time, without a jacket.
       
The menu of the Belvedere starts with a listing of special dishes recommended that day and on this day, fish seemed to feature strongly. On the main menu there was a limited selection of hot and cold starters which included oysters and baked oysters both priced the same at Zl.80.95. Then there is a choice of soups and few main course salads. The selection of mains was limited to seven meat dishes and five fish including lobster at ZL.80 for a small and Zl.133 for a large.
       
I decided on a terrine of salmon and turbot, from the daily menu, as a starter. I passed on nominating my next course until I had tried this. A wise precaution because the good looking layered terrine was cut thinly and at Zl.39 would have had the average kitten meowing for more. So I asked for a wild fowl pate from the cold starter section. This was a much more wholesome dish with two good slices of greyish looking pate with a large garnish of pickled mushrooms and salad as well as a sauce of red current and apple. The pate was very bland to taste but I had no complaints since at Zl.30.95 it could at least be called a course.
       
I now moved to the mains and the item that caught my attention was the Scottish lamb chops served with maxim's galetta and pommery mustard sauce. The problem here was that the lamb chops had been stripped of all fat. I know it is fashionable to produce very lean meat but it is the fat that gives the flavour, and these tiny little chops, cooked á point, would have tasted a lot better if the fat had been left on. Especially as they had been cooked on a grill, and slightly charred. Unfortunately this taste was too strong for the fatless cutlets. The sauce was very well made and nicely poured around the outside of the plate. I had strawberries with zaboyone as a sweet and enjoyed a well made and presented dish.
       
The wine list was not as outrageous as I had expected and the house wine was from French shippers Moreaux et fils and priced at Zl.53. Most of the general generic wines were just under Zl.100 and an '83 Haute Brion would have cost Zl.732.

The menu had a comment to the effect that service would be added to the bill. But failed to say how much service. When I asked to pay I was, to say the least, surprised that service ran to 15%. Thus my bill was for Zl.234 and it was only after I left that I realised I had given the waiter Zl.240 and he had failed to return the change.

The Belvedere is in a great setting and the food is probably as good as anywhere in Warsaw. However I thought the general standard of service was well below par, and frankly I am not convinced that the prices charged are really worth it. If I was in London, or Paris, I could get a very good meal for $90 per head including a bottle of wine. And that meal would have been better than what I had this time, or for that matter before, at the Belvedere.
       
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